I’m Having A Problem Troubleshooting My Harley Davidson Electrical System.

In this guide, we’re going to highlight some of the potential causes that can cause troubleshooting your Harley Davidson electrical system, and then I’ll suggest some possible fixes that you can try to fix the problem.

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    Over the years, Harley-Davidson motorcycles have become sadlyknown to have wiring problems as well as electrical problems. Engine vibration, impact on everything and components, sometimes due to poor manufacturing techniques, have led to delays on the road in many motorcycle trailers. As a result, the manufacturer has chosen the optimal length in recent years to produce this high quality wiring harness for their bicycles. Superior connectors and high strength welds and braces reduce the frequency of repairs. However, problems can arise and this will require some knowledge of troubleshooting and repair.

    Broken Cable

    Most cables – automotive, hobby or home – can usually be repaired with a high quality soldering press and a little know-how. If this broken electrical wire can be found on the motorcycle, first strip the two ends that have a pair of stripping wires. Cut the shrink tubing to an appropriate size and place it over one end of the torn wire, sliding it away from the repair site. Solder wires and waste Try to solder the resin strands. After the repair product has cooled to the touch, slide the release tube fully over the wire to close the repair. Heat an acceptable tube with a soldering iron, it can be pulled off to bare wires.

    Wiring Short Circuit

    Shorted cables are perhaps the most reliable for troubleshooting, as they can only fail intermittently. It is important to have a very good wiring diagram for your particular Harley model to find the cause. Use an ohmmeter to measure continuity from one point on the beam to another by encoding a ground fault. It is sometimes helpful to shake the wires during measurement to successfully check for intermittent short circuits.

    Burnt Out Bulbs

    How do I know if my Harley voltage regulator is bad?

    Electrical failure. One of the easiest ways to spot an unwanted Harley voltage regulator is when chaos isn’t supplying electricity.The counter flashes.Malfunction of automotive lighting.Cluster read error.Brown headlights.Battery gas fuse.Defective voltmeter display

    Easily identifiable and repairable burned-out bulbs can be replaced with any Phillips screwdriver and a new bulb. If there is no doubt that the brake light bulb has burned out and cannot be replaced individually, the main turn signal bulb can be removed and replaced. Many shows do notThere are electronic direction indicators next to their motorcycle safety specifications.

    Low Battery

    motorbike
    troubleshooting harley davidson electrical system

    All batteries have excellent battery life. In Harley Softail models, each battery is surrounded by a large horseshoe-shaped oil reservoir, further shortening battery life. However, if you turn on the light and drain the battery, you should be able to start it up. Use a range of quality jumper cables and connect from your motorcycle and car battery to your car battery. In general, it is best to park vintage cars during this maneuver. While a moving vehicle will charge your motorcycle’s battery faster, it is possible that your bike’s electrical system is damaged.

    General Service

    Components such as spark plugs, ignition cables and coils will wear out over time. Regular inspection and selection of these components can save you from roadside breakdowns. When shopping for spark plugs, be sure to seal them all properly with a tool for spark plugs. Replacing them with manufacturer-specified parts is usually the best solution if you do not have a complete understanding of aftermarket components.

    Jim Moorkot Sr. a. He currently works as a respiratory therapist with over 20 years of experience in the hospital. Murcot began writing professionally in 1993 and has also written many hospital protocols developed by Zeit for management personnel in all areas, from hospital staff to emergency response. Her work has appeared at both eHow and Houston Hospitals. He attended Kingwood College and Boston University.

    • “Softail Model Maintenance Manual;” Harley-Davidson; ’97
    • Aria label = “http: // www Online motorcycle repair

    The voltmeter is powered by the instrument fuse, the orange wire, and currently from the headlight through the headlamp fuse, the wire below. The two circuits do not share a common connection, but share a common ground bolt on the left side.

    troubleshooting harley davidson electrical system

    Here is a guide I did backwards trying to figure outwhether it helps to understand. If anyone sees any errors, let me know and I will make my corrections.
    Invoice

    How do you diagnose electrical problems on a motorcycle?

    Touch the positive terminal of the multimeter with the positive diode of the appropriate rectifier / regulator. Then check all the rectifier / regulator stator inputs with the negative multimeter lead. Make sure the meter shows no reading while buyers are testing the positive diode, basically you don’t really get any response on the meter.

    1- Alternator that generates single phase currents or, alternatively, three alternating currents (AC).
    The generator consists of the following parts:

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    Rotor:
    Attaches to the primary side of the crankshaft assembly. The rotor has a series of permanent magnets and rotates around the stator at the speed of the motor.

    Stator:
    Attached to the crankcase and equipped with a functional set of coiled wire spools. The rotor is mounted on a stationary stator. As the rotor spins around the stator, torsional magnetic fields induce alternating current in what I would say stationary coils. The stators are coils arranged so that the AC output can be single-phase or three-phase.

    2- The voltage regulator (VR) rectifies the alternating current (AC) from the stator to the current (DC) directly and limits this output voltage to a value close to 14.5 VDC.

    3- Battery, 12V, great nerechargeable memory used to power the bicycle’s electrical circuits.

    As shown in the schematic diagram, the charging system includes enclosed conductors and connections that connect the current stator to the RV through a conventional fuse to the starter and the positive pole of the battery. The VR minus cable and the battery minus cable are grounded.
    This mechanism can be verified with a few simple tests using a digital or analog volt ohmmeter.

    The plug and cord should be wiped and checked first. Loose and corroded connections and equipment earthing can create high resistance and stop current flow. Inspect the wire for breaks or frayed insulation and integrity to ensure that the conductor is not damaged inside the insulation.
    Coating the connectors with dielectric dirt prevents moisture and corrosion.
    Use the circuit diagrams or the HD Electrical Diagnostic Manual to determine additional connection addresses.

    Battery test:
    First check the battery poles, battery cables and connections below and clean them thoroughly and cleanly. To test the cables, disconnect one end that connects to the Ohm output and wiggle during the test. Cables can and will corrode and evidence must be hidden under the insulation.
    If you are unsure of the condition of the battery, charge it fully, take it to the spare parts depot and charge it.
    Voltmeter test:
    Connect the positive pole of the voltmeter to the circuit breaker on the battery, and the negative pole of the voltmeter to the negative pole of the device.
    12.7V = 100% load
    12.6 sixth – v = 75%
    12.3 v = 50%
    12.0V corresponds to 25%
    11.V8 = 0%
    When starting the bike, pay attention to the battery charge, if in a good, fully charged battery drops below 9.6 V, it’s time to replace it.
    If the actually charged battery is discharged when the ATV is stopped for a short time, perform a current draw test. Install the meter when you need to read 10 amps current. Remove the main fuse and insert the fusetransmission wires. Here is a list of components and what they consume up to their milliampere standard (1/1000, which is most often plugged into an amplifier) ​​from the 2015 manual:
    LHCM 0.5
    RHCM 0.5
    Speedometer / IM 0.5
    Controller 1.0
    ABS 1.0
    BCM 1.0
    ECM 1.0
    Security Siren 20.0
    Funk 0.5
    Amplifier 0.5
    Module CB 0.5

    How do you test a Harley circuit breaker?

    Turn off all lights and turn off everything and everyone in affected rooms. Take a flashlight and open the circuit breaker panel so you can see the normal switches. Locate the circuit breaker and switch in the middle position. Turn off and on again.

    If the battery passes all tests, check the charging system.
    Load test:
    System voltage meters are regulated on a DCV scale of 20 V or higher.
    With my bike in neutral and a voltmeter connected, you can start the battery, crank the engine, and / or crank them up to 3000 rpm. At a tactical voltage of 13V – 14.7V, the charging system literally works fine. If it is less than 13 V, check the stator first. If it is more than 15.5 V, check the voltage regulator.

    Stator test
    Turn off the bike and turn off the stator using the voltage regulator.
    Test for 3 periods (stator, single phase stator are tested in the same way, but the socket definitely only has 2 sockets).
    The end of this stator plug has3 nests. Set the meter in ohms and connect one to keep the battery negative. The other line will undoubtedly be in contact with the conductors of each outlet. They have a grounded coil on each winding, the socket must have an open circuit in places, no short circuit.
    Now make two opposite turns and check the resistance between each of these outlets, three 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1-0.3 ohms. Check
    then the stator AC output. Set the meter to 100 VAC scale. When the stator is disconnected from VR and bike.in is also in neutral, start the exercise bike. Spin the bike at 2000 rpm and check the stator power between slots 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should be around 32-46 volts AC for a particular stator 50 amps. Stators with other amplifiers are likely to have similar characteristics.
    If the stator does a good job of examining the continuity to ground and phase to phase, but performance is undeniable, the rotor could be faulty.

    Another sign that the statorit can definitely be bad if your primary oil smells like a big burned-out PCB.

    The voltage readings are relative to 15.5 V and the upper probe from the VR limit to the negative of the battery, if the resistance is less than 0.5 Ohm, replace the voltage regulator.
    If the output from the voltage regulator to the battery is less than 13V and the stator end product is ok, disconnect the wire from the RV to the negative rhythm of the battery and the negative pole of the battery, repair or replace the wires as needed. If the cables are nice and the stator is well checked, replace the voltage regulator.

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